8 days mount kenya climbing batian peak / sirimon route

8 days mount kenya climbing batian peak / sirimon route. Mount kenya Technical climbing has unique direction on the equator offers climbing in 4 seasons and route conditions varying with the sun's Position tropic of cancer/ tropic of Capricorn or Equitor.

A climber doing one of the best ice routes are on the southern side of the mountain and should climb when the sun is in the North between the months of July and September.

However during the same period the east and north sides are the best condition in rock climbing. Conversely when the sun is in the south, south side offers the best rock routes and the North the better ice climbing condition.

8 days mount kenya climbing batian peak / sirimon route
July-September/October North Face Standard route Standard IV (Rock Route)

North Face Sirimon Approach December-March Normal Routes, Standard IV: South West Ridge, Standard v (Rock routes)

August-December South-East Face Route. Standard IV ,Ice Window, Standard V (ice routes)

Mid July to end of September Ice Climbing through the 'Diamond Cooler'

Recommended Routes for Techinical climbing at Mount Kenya

Climbing from base of Normal Route direct to top of Nelion and then crossing the gate of mist to Batian and back to Nelion and descend the same way. to the summit is a challenging technical climb.

For the experienced mountain climber, this peak is one of the world great challenges

8 Day Mt Kenya Rock climbing via the North Face Standard Route.



The North Face itinerary is suitable for the summer to fall (June – Sept) climbing season when the North Face of the peak is relatively snow-free and climbing conditions are best.

Day 1: Nairobi- Mt Kenya Bandas (2,900m)

Depart from Nairobi at 0800hrs, driving through agricultural country up to Chogoria town for lunch. After lunch, we take 4×4 and drive up to the edge of the bamboo forest where we start our trekking through the dense bamboo forest for distance of 10 km up to the Mt Kenya Bandas. Dinner and overnight at the Mount Kenya Bandas.

Day 2: Mt Kenya Bandas – Lake Ellis Campsite ( 3,600m)

After breakfast and sorting of porter loads we set off up the mountain at a nice and easy pace A slightly longer walk via Lake Ellis gives scenic views of Mugi, Ithanguni and the Giants Billiards Table, whilst if we follow the river near road head, upstream for about 3 km, the foreground scenery and flora is particularly beautiful. Lunch on the banks of a stream, then it`s time to cut up the left hand hillside to our camp at about 3,600m, well away from any of the more touristy areas.

Day 3: Lake Ellis- Minto`s Camp. ( 4,200m).

Similar early start. Again well off the beaten track to follow a ridge up the mountain for about 3 hours to eventually join the tourist track on the normal Chogoria route at an altitude of about 4,100m. Breath taking views over the Gorges Valley and back over towards Ithanguni and the Northern Moorland

Lunch is served at a small stream crossing, before continuing for a further hour to the Mintos Hut area at 4200m and our night rest. Afternoon is spent relaxing at camp, though a 10 minute walk to the Temple is well worth the effort. This is a 150 meters vertical cliff that gets its name from the position visitors often adopt when peering over the edge they look as if they are praying.

Day 4: Minto`s -Shipton Camp (4,200m) You rise early and continue your trek up to Top Hut (Austrian Hut) 4800m. From this Hut you make a final short ascent of Point Lenana, 4985m,. Point Lenana is the common trekkers Mount Kenya Summit. From this summit you then go straight down the Northwest side to Shipton`s Camp, passing Harris Tarn.

Day 5: Shipton camp - acclimatazation day walk around the camps and observe the peaks before starting climbing

Day 6: Shipton – Batian (5199m) – Shipton (Climbing Day)

Ascent of Batian by the North Face Standard Route. Starting in the early morning dark, usually between 4 and 5 am, you may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp.

The route initially follows a wide couloir which you ascend for some 7 pitches, never harder than 5.7. A bit of easy scrambling brings us to the Amphitheater, a small basin of easy rock part way up the route. Ideally we arrive here by about 7:30 or so, enjoying a short break. Above this is the crux of the route, Firmin’s Tower. There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, but all in the V grade. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch, a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the airy summit of Batian. You’ll then descend via the same route hopefully hitting Shipton’s Camp before evening dusk for dinner and overnight.

Day 7: Shipton camp- Old Moses Camp (3,300m)

After breakfast descend to Shiptons camp via Simba col after which you begin a 5 hour descent via Mackinder`s valley to the Old Moses camp. The descent is gentle and it offers ample time to enjoy fascinating scenery which includes the moorlands before reaching the camp. Dinner and overnight at the Old Moses camp

Day 8: Old Moses – Nairobi. After early morning breakfast, descend for 3 hours to the Sirimon Park gate to catch a vehicle and transfer back to Nairobi arriving by evening Hrs. 8 days mount kenya climbing batian peak / sirimon route